Facial hyaluronic acid: effect, price,contraindications, indications, pros, cons

Update: October 2018 The beauty industry is constantly expanding
list of cosmetic procedures and preparations that allow
сохранить молодость лица и устранить возрастные изменения skin,
that inevitably happen to every person. Long enough and
hyaluronic acid is used effectively in aesthetic medicine
for the face, represented in various cosmetic products for
salon and home use. Included in the cosmetic
products (creams, lotions, masks and others), used to
facial biorevitalisation and other manipulations that allow
slow down the aging process and improve the condition of the tissues.

How effective are these procedures and what role does it play
гиалуронат в поддержании молодости и тонуса skin, рассмотрим в
this article.

Properties, structure of hyaluronic acid and its role in the skin

This chemical compound was discovered in 1930. Carl
Meyer has been intensively studied by physicians to this very day.
chemists, pharmacists and other scientists on experimental and
biological models.

It has a unique physical property – able to hold
water, forming a gel-like structure. Participates in
most vital processes in the body
human and animal. The substance is formed in the human body,
and about 1/3 of the total amount of hyaluronate daily
splits and utilized, and this deficit is filled with new
molecules.

It is a polysaccharide and consists of many identical
small fragments, the number of which may be different. therefore
the hyaluronate molecule can have different lengths and masses and
classified into low- and high-molecular.

Included in many tissues and body fluids, including
including the dermis:

  • keeps collagen and elastin fibers in proper
    position and contributes thereby to maintaining elasticity and
    тургора skin, которые являются обязательными условиями для
    preserve youth;
  • due to the binding of water provides optimal content
    moisture in the skin, maintaining hydro balance, which is also a factor
    warning of wrinkles and aging;
  • reduces moisture evaporation and simultaneously contributes
    attracting and holding water from the air on the surface of the dermis,
    moisturizing the skin and making it more smooth and supple;
  • acid molecules prevent the penetration of pathogenic
    microbes deep in the presence of damage, such as wounds, scratches
    and etc.

The life of the hyaluronate molecule in the epidermis and dermis
is 1-2 days.

The best hyaluronic acid for the face is its own, which
produced in the body. But with age decreases the ability
synthesize acid in the required amount and with proper
molecular weight, which also plays a role in aging. therefore
the body needs an additional source of acid, one of
which are cosmetic preparations.

Preparations and agents with hyaluronic acid

Getting hyaluronate on an industrial scale today takes
market niche, since this “product” is extremely in demand
and in medicine, and in cosmetology. Get acid in two ways:

  1. from animal tissue;
  2. by bacterial fermentation.

Of animal products, the most common option (and
optimal) are the crests of mature cocks and chickens. Also
use the vitreous of the eye, hyaline cartilage, synovial
fluid joints, umbilical cord of animals.

The second method involves the participation of bacteria (most often
hemolytic streptococci types A and B), which are placed on
nutrient environment and provide optimal conditions for
breeding. Bacteria produce acid, which is then purified,
however, impurities of proteins and peptides still remain in purified
product may provoke allergic reactions that
significantly limits the scope of use of the acid obtained by such
in a way.

Ready acid is produced in pharmaceutical plants in the form
granules and powders that contain molecules of different mass. it
basic raw materials for the preparation of solutions that are sterilized in
autoclaves and contribute to the composition of masks, creams, preparations, etc.

Properties of hyaluronic acid preparations with different
molecular weight

The mass of hyaluronate molecules directly affects the function of the substance and
the degree of penetration into the tissue.

Low molecular weight species with a mass less than 30 kDa:

  • pass well through barriers and cell membranes
    проникать в глубокие слои дермы с поверхности skin;
  • improve microcirculation;
  • улучшают питание skin.

Medium-molecular preparations with a mass of 30-100 kDa:

  • ускоряют заживление повреждений skin;
  • stimulate the process of cell division.

High-molecular drugs with a mass of molecules of 500-730 kDa:

  • unable to penetrate the deep layers of the dermis and moisturize
    epidermis;
  • stop inflammation.

therefore для разных целей эстетической коррекции skin следует
apply the right drug or remedy whereas
universal option, “miracle cocktail 10 in 1 ”just
does not exist!

Facial hyaluronic acid: aesthetic application
purposes

it уникальное вещество широко используется в эстетической
medicine for home use (cream, face mask with
hyaluronic acid), and for salon procedures.

Most widely used for:

  • омоложения skin;
  • elimination of age-related changes of the face;
  • eliminate defects “minus-fabric”, which are after
    surgical interventions.

Procedures and drugs are well tolerated, rarely cause
allergies and provide a fairly long lasting effect up to one and a half
years old. The greatest effect is observed in the age group of 30-40 years, and
But after 40 years of significant correction of age changes,
сожалению, не ожидать не worth it.

Salon treatments

Инъекции для лица  — в эту обширную категорию входят
several methods of non-surgical (non-surgical) rejuvenation
skin и уменьшения проявлений возрастных changes. They are united
method of introducing hyaluronate into the skin tissue: through
injections (injections). All procedures are performed under local
anesthesia.

General indications for the use of hyaluronic drugs
acids are considered:

  • dehydrated, dried, loose skin;
  • сниженный тургор skin;
  • unhealthy, dull complexion;
  • age wrinkles;
  • age change of facial contours;
  • dark circles under the eyes;
  • неровный рельеф skin;
  • thin, disproportionate lips.

Face after hyaluronic acid acquires an updated look:
smoothes the skin, reduces the severity of wrinkles, improves
turgor, increases the degree of hydration of the structures of the skin.

Mesotherapy

Mesotherapy лица гиалуроновой кислотой проводится локально,
only in areas that need correction (wrinkles, folds).
The course includes several injections, which are inserted with a temporary
in small doses. It is characterized by a cumulative effect.
which persists for several months.

Biorevitalization

It is conducted on the same principle with the difference that applies
large dose of high molecular weight acid and only one is needed
an injection. Characterized by both immediate and delayed
the result. Immediately after the injection, a noticeable smoothing is observed.
wrinkles, which lasts only 1-2 weeks. Next, enter the drug
is destroyed by special enzymes, and from an acid molecule with
высокой molecular weight получаются короткие фрагментарные
molecules. They stimulate the production of its own hyaluronate,
fiber growth of elastin and collagen, which leads to a gradual
rejuvenation: to improve the turgor of the dermis, the disappearance of flabbiness and
уменьшению выраженности и глубины wrinkles. This effect is observed
в течение полутора years old.

Bioreparation

A procedure similar to biorevitalization, with the only difference being that
препараты для ее проведения насыщаются не только hyaluronate, но и
other substances with biological activity: vitamins,
минералами, аминокислотами and etc. it обеспечивает более длительный
and a pronounced effect and expands the possibilities of the procedure: allows
устранить дефекты skin, такие как шрамы, следы от прыщей.

Bioarming

Contour correction of the face with the use of fillers – special
threads of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in local areas
skin, нуждающиеся в коррекции (второе название – биоармирование).
The most justified introduction of fillers is considered for correction.
lines of cheekbones, face contours, to eliminate bags under the eyes.

Point injections to the lips

Are held to increase the volume of the lips and get a clearer
their contour. The effect persists for a period of 8 to 18 months, and
the full effect of injections is achieved on the second day after
procedures.

Dark Circle Injections

Injections to eliminate dark circles and wrinkles under the eyes and
коррекции состояния нежной skin вокруг глаз. Improve elasticity
тонкой skin, повышают увлажненность и позволяют уменьшить
expressiveness of “goose paws” – characteristic fine wrinkles with
the outer side of the eyes.

Approximate effects of the procedures described above can be viewed at
photos posted in the gallery of beauty salons. But remember
that in each case the result will be individual.

Side effects after the procedure are possible in the form of pain in
местах инъекций, а также отека и покраснения skin. But, if the injections
makes an incompetent specialist, there may be more serious
reactions such as inflammation at the injection site, significant swelling
and compaction, and when pathogens are introduced –
серьезные инфекции skin.

Contraindications for injecting
hyaluronate

Injection plastic face hyaluronic acid is contraindicated
in the following cases:

  • intolerance to major or minor components
    drug;
  • pregnancy and lactation period;
  • exacerbation of chronic diseases and any acute
    pathology;
  • autoimmune diseases;
  • connective tissue disease;
  • oncopathology;
  • hypertonic disease;
  • propensity to form scars on the skin;
  • bleeding disorders and treatment with drugs
    clotting;
  • diabetic angiopathy;
  • воспаления, родинки и заболевания skin в introduction areas
    drug.

Serum, masks and face cream with hyaluronic acid –
efficiency and application features

A huge list of cosmetic products that contain
hyaluronate are intended for topical use. Shown at
stock:

  • дряблости и сниженного тургора skin;
  • couperose;
  • enlarged pores;
  • uneven complexion;
  • неровного рельефа skin;
  • wrinkles.

In order to achieve a visible effect, means are recommended to apply.
in a complex (tonic, cream, mask, etc.), regularly and not less than 1
of the month.

Each product contains a different amount of hyaluronate. So,
facial serum is characterized by the highest concentration of acid,
поэтому рекомендуется при наличии выраженных изменений skin и при
the need to achieve rapid effect in the initial stage of care.
Next, go to the cream containing high molecular weight or
low molecular weight hyaluronic acid:

  1. cream with amolecular hyaluronate cover the skin invisible
    film and already out of it absorbed into the epidermis, moisturizing it and
    leveling the complexion;
  2. agents with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid are capable
    penetrate deep into the skin, which leads to a more persistent and
    pronounced effect. These creams are expensive, so to them
    resort to reduce the severity of significant age
    changes.

Masks are chosen on the same principle as the cream, and use
1-2 times a week.

All products with giluronatom recommended only when
above zero or in the event that no
the street. In the cold, its molecules crystallize and can even damage
skin

It is not recommended to use cosmetic preparations with
hyaluronate up to 25 years. At this age, the skin produces
sufficient amount of own acid, and its receipt from the outside
may cause the opposite effect: the skin will cease
produce your own polysaccharide.

Overview of some home use products with
hyaluronate

Liberoderm with hyaluronic acid for the face

либредермUniversal odorless moisturizer and
синтетических добавок, который подходит для всех типов skin, в том
including hypersensitive and overdried. Contains elevated
the amount of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and possesses
following properties: moisturizes the epidermis, restores
Hydrobalance of the dermis, evens the relief of the face, improves color.
Eliminates desquamation, redness and other manifestations
гиперчувствительной skin. Helps eliminate early signs
aging. Recommended for daily care of the area around.
глаз, skin лица, шеи и зоны декольте.

Face Cream Liberdierm sold in a convenient bottle with dispenser
volume of 50 ml and will cost 400-500 rubles. Produced in
Russia.

In addition to the cream, in the line of Libraderm there are other means with
hyaluronate, предназначенные для комплексного ухода: вода,
serum and others. Reviews of products of this line mainly
positive but all means require an integrated and regular
application.

Cream laura

крем ЛораAnother Russian cosmetic product
production, which falls into the category of anti-aging and
contains many active ingredients, in addition to hyaluronate: vitamins,
extracts of needle and wild yam, vegetable phospholipids, soy
oil and others.

Tuba 30 gr. will cost about 350-450 rubles.

Moisturizing Cream

Крем ДоливаWell-known cosmetic concern, positioning
its cosmetic products as natural products, did not go around
attention and hyaluronate, in addition to which, in a universal cream for
All ages contain olive and shea butter, panthenol, vitamin
E, trace elements, linalol. Differs in a good moisturizer.
effect.

A jar of 50 ml costs 700-800 rubles.

Topikrem

TopikremFrench anti-aging cream containing 2 types
hyaluronic acid (high and low molecular weight), shea butter and
baobab, avocado extract. Replenishes the moisture content of the dermis,
provides elasticity and softness and significantly improves the complexion.
Recommended for dry skin care after 30 years.

A bottle of 40 ml costs 1300-1400 rubles.

Merz

MerzIt is a gentle, quickly absorbed mousse,
особенно рекомендованный для нежной и чувствительной skin. Contains
low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, algae, glucosamines.
Очень хорошо увлажняет, стимулирует обновление skin и синтез
own hyaluron.

The price of a bottle of 50 ml – 800-900 rubles.

Evelyn

EvelynCream from the Polish manufacturer with pronounced
moisturizing properties and somewhat less anti-aging.
Covers the surface of the epidermis with a breathable film that
prevents moisture loss.

Price – 380-400 rubles.

Homemade cream

An alternative option for expensive products that
sold in a pharmacy and stores, is a version of homemade cream.
To obtain it, you first need to prepare a gel with hyaluronic acid.
acid: connect 0.3 gr. hyaluronate powder with distilled
water until creamy, mix and 6-8
hours to put the base in the fridge. Next, take any base
cream, for example, children, add 8-10 gr. gel and well
mix, leave in a dry, cool place for 6 hours and beyond
apply as an ordinary cream in the morning and evening, just keep it in
the fridge.

Internal use of hyaluronic acid preparations for
skin

In 2014, Japanese scientists in a randomized,
a blind, double, placebo-controlled trial has been proven
that the internal use of drugs with hyaluronate, as food
добавки, повышает уровень увлажненности skin.

Internal use for hyaluronate, as food supplements,
является относительно новым методом устранения сухости skin, и
most widely used in Japan. And in the last
time this method is positioned as one of their alternative
способ лечения пациентов с хронической сухостью skin.

The first cosmetic with acid for outdoor
application appeared in 1979, whereas hyaluronate was used as food
add back in 1942. It was then that Andre Balas filed an application for
patenting commercial use of hyaluroanate like
substitute egg white for bakery production. In China and
countries of Western Europe, the cockscomb, the main vegetable
raw materials for hyaluronate, was a royal dish. Him
used Catherine de Medici and the wife of Henry II to save
youth Today, food supplements with hyaluronic acid are more
позиционируются как  средства для улучшения функции коленных
arthrosis and prophylaxis of this
diseases.

In Korea and Japan, products with hyaluronate with the same frequency
применяются для поддержания здоровья суставов и skin. Proved that
daily intake of 120-240 mg of acid per day leads to
значительному улучшению состояния skin лица и тела и восстановлению
water balance.

Partially depolymerized hyaluronate orally,
absorbed in the gastrointestinal tract. Acid is unchanged
the form is absorbed into the lymphatic system. Both types of hyaluronate
then get into the skin. Hyaluronic acid oligosaccharides
increase the production of its own hyaluron in fibroblasts and
stimulate cell proliferation, which directly affects
увлажненность skin.

Safety of oral administration of HA of various origins and with
different molecular weight proven in animal experiments,
however, like all foreign, entering the body requires more
deep and careful study, as well as monitoring the state
patient health in remote dynamics and in no case
is a panacea.

Based on the written, we can conclude that the means and
treatments with hyaluronic acid have a positive effect on
увлажненность skin и позволяют поддерживать оптимальный
hydrobalance, especially in women 30-40 years. However any
dramatic improvements in the condition of the skin and significant
reduce wrinkles, especially women over 40, expect not to
worth it.

Автор: врач-гигиенист, эпидемиолог

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